In March 2015 I walked through the lanes of Büyükada, an island that lies an hour’s slow ferry ride from Istanbul, eventually coming to the track that leads down to the ruins of the villa in which Leon Trotsky lived between 1929 and 33. The garden, its grass long and pocketed with wild alliums, ends at the shoreline. I walked to the edge and stared out to the Sea of Marmara. I remember thinking this place had a strange, almost…
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