The air in Cali is thick and humid, and it gets dark at 6pm every day. The old part of town is framed by one-storey buildings into which small shops are squeezed, offering plateau-soled shoes and freshly cut pieces of pineapple in plastic cups. And then there is the occasional strikingly more ‘bling’ building, richly embellished yet not referencing any particular style. Ornamental abundance itself is the theme, from architecture to plastic surgery, of which Cali is Colombia’s hub. My…
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